Day three - Varzi to Capanne de Cosola

Today's walk was described as a hard sustained climb of 350m in the first two hours followed by a huge climb of 750m in the next then a switch back along a ridge, so 21km and 1210m ascent.

We were provided with a wonderful breakfast by Greta, chatted about the day a head. She had already done the walk from Varzai to Camogli, so after today's big push it was easy walking she reckoned.
On checking the weather there was a severe thunderstorm warning for the afternoon.
There has always been the option to take the luggage taxi part or all of the way, this was due to depart at  10.00 so our early start would be negated and we would be still on the hills when the storm came through.
Taxi was ordered and we hit the road at  08.30, complete with our bags.
We were to miss the first two hours of walking and set off from Bar Pollini in Castellaro.

Allan set for the day ahead.


We set off in glorious sunshine, shorts and a base layer, this the second of the climbs originally mentioned, all was well with the world!
It was a mixture of asphalt  and stony track, but this was going to be a long hard trudge up hill with promises of views beyond. The path often left the road and with a steep uphill ascent on what was very sticky heavy clay like the photo below.




The promise of a ridge top walk kept us going. We came off the ascent to a broad path thru trees.


The dappled morning sunlight making a very pleasant walk. This broad walk lead to a clearing and the first of the mountain refuges we were to see that day.

Rifugio plan della Mora.
Slipping our rucksacks off we had a break and something to eat, whilst halted I noticed lots of yellow flowers in the near by meadow. On closer investigation we were about to walk through a true alpine meadow, lots of different orchids.





Cowslips standing so tall in the sunshine. 


The ridge was clearly defined now, gentle contour walking stopping of for more flowers.




The view back had some ominous black clouds that were building 



Visibility was good as we could see an observatory on a far hilltop, we could hear thunder in the distance so at the next refugee Rifugio Laguione, we dressed up with our waterproofs.


We are well over 1500m now the air temperature had dropped, the ridge was wooded but cloud was low and hanging in the trees.


The thunder got closer, we felt comfortable walking in quite thick woodland , the rain came along with more thunder and lightening, then we were being bombarded by hailstones.
Head down stepping out counting the seconds between flash and crash, getting closer.
We looked a head took a moment there was a 500m exposed area, the thunder seemed ~ 5 miles away, so we pushed on both with our heads down only to jump out of our skin when a flash and crash happened simultaneously hail got harder, we were getting soaked and took refuge in the ski station cable turn around, just on the col before Monte  Chiappo at 1700m. The walking instructions suggested we bag this Mount and arrive at the Albergo triumphant, we took the easy option as the rain eased and headed down thru tussocks of grass thick with hailstones.
We just about fell out of a muddy field onto the road and within 50m there was Capanne de Cosola.

We let ourselves in to the reception standing at the door dripping, Paulo was there to greet us with a very warm smile, showed us to our room. The gas fire was on high, no sooner had the left us he was back with a 6 foot clothes airer on wheels which was perfect to hang our wet waterproofs on.

After a hot shower and dressed we walked into the restaurant of the Albergo, sat having a local beer and enjoying the views

The clouds moved away and we saw amazing scenery  in the setting sun.

We were in for a culinary feast, lots of antipasti some we had to ask but included a fabulous mushroom little tart with lots of flavour and a very interesting dish of pork fat served with balsamic vinegar or honey, Allan was considering one of my Lansoprazole!


The main course and wine was of equally high standard, we couldn't cope with a desert! 


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